Preparing the Batter

Eggs are the heart and soul of a spongecake batter, and whether you succeed with your cake depends entirely on how much air you beat into them. Have all your utensils and ingredients ready, since you will not want to stop after starting the batter. Eggs should be free-range or organic and at room temperature: chilled egg whites do not fluff satisfactorily. Sift flour: cake flour is preferable since with less gluten it absorbs less moisture than the all-purpose variety.

Here are three different methods for arrive at a perfectly beaten Biskuit.

Method I

This method, known as Blitzbiskuit (lightning spongecake), is the most commonly used in modern Germany. You must lavish care in the beating of the egg whites. Sugar is then added when the whites are forming soft peaks and the mixture is further beaten until very stiff. The egg yolks are only folded in gently. This batter has more “body.” Which is preferable for layer cakes and particularly helpful when melted butter (for butter spongecake) or a small amount of nuts is added. The texture of this cake is very light but at the same time a bit firmer than batters made with Method II.

By Hand. Utensils must be clean and absolutely fat free, otherwise the egg whites will not mount properly (see here for how to beat egg whites).

The working method for making this type of spongecake is nearly the same whether you use elbow grease or an electric mixer. Anchor the bowl to the counter or table top with a suction ring, or place it on a folded wet towel so that you will have a free hand to add ingredients. Sit comfortably, place the egg whites in the bowl and start to beat with a wire whip. For six egg whites it will take about 10 minutes of continuous beating. When the egg whites form soft peaks, add the sugar by spoonfuls, plus any salt. Continue beating until the mixture is very thick. Add lemon juice to stabilize the egg whites, together with grated lemon peel or other flavorings. Beat a few minutes longer, or until the mixture is thick enough to cling to the whip in a large glob. Finally, add the egg yolks, one by one, stirring just enough to blend.

Fold in one-fourth of the flour, using the whip. Very gently stir in the rest of the flour, going down to the bottom of the bowl and up along the sides, until all of the flour (or nuts or cocoa) is incorporated. It is important to do this as easily and gently as possible in order not to deflate the tiny bubbles of egg white.

Immediately pour the batter into the prepared pan. Gently tilt the pan to stop the batter clinging to the sides and place directly into the preheated oven.

With Electric Mixer. The procedure is essentially the same as with the hand method: read the above first.

The important thing to remember is to use the lowest setting of the mixer for beating the egg whites until they are foamy. Slowly increase speed and beat until they form soft peaks. Add sugar by spoonfuls, plus a pinch of salt, and beat the mixture until thick. Add lemon juice, grated lemon peel or other flavorings and continue beating; the mixture should be thick enough to cling to the beater in a large glob. Turn mixer to the lowest setting and add the yolks one at a time, just barely blending them.

At this point, revert to a wire whip for folding in the flour, as described in the hand method. An electric mixer is unsatisfactory for this procedure, which must be done very gently.

Method II

In this classic method, eggs and sugar are beaten by hand in a hot water bath; or you may dispense with the water bath and simply use an electric mixer to more easily accomplish almost the same thing. Spongecakes made either way will be soft to the touch and therefore perfect for a spongecake roll which needs to be rolled up without breaking.

With Electric Mixer. Break whole eggs into a mixing bowl and start beating on medium until they are foamy. Add sugar by spoonfuls and flavoring. Increase speed to medium high and beat the mixture until it is very thick and pale yellow in color. At this point, change to a wire whip for folding in the flour. (A wire whip works better than a spatula, since it is necessary that the incorporation of flour be as complete as possible). Sift one-half of the flour into the egg mixture. Very gently stir it under the mixture, going down to the bottom of the bowl and up along the sides. Add the other half, working as quickly and gently as you can in order not to deflate the batter.

Pour the batter onto the prepared baking sheet at once and bake as directed by the recipe.

By Hand. Prepare ingredients and utensils as above. Break eggs into a bowl, set over hot, not quite simmering, water. Keep flame at its lowest. Start beating, slowly adding sugar and flavoring. When mixture begins to fluff up and thicken, remove the bowl from the water, but continue beating until it is very thick and pale yellow in color.

Fold in the flour very gently, as above.

Method III

Good results are obtained by the method in which flour is largely or completely replaced by nuts (or nuts and chocolate). Egg yolks and sugar are beaten together until light and fluffy. The whites are then beaten separately until stiff and folded in alternately with the nuts. A few recipes for tortes will ask for this method.

By Hand and by Mixer. Divide the eggs. Beat egg yolks and sugar with a wire whip or electric mixer until the sugar is dissolved. The mixture will look pale yellow and be light and fluffy.

In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until stiff. By hand (do not use an electric mixer for this task, as it will overmix), add half of the flour or nuts and half of the stiffly beaten egg whites to the egg yolks-sugar mixture. With a wire whip fold together very gently. Add remaining flour or nuts and fold again. Finally, add the rest of the whites and fold in rapidly so as not to deflate the batter.

Immediately pour the batter into the prepared pan, tilting the pan to stop the batter clinging to the sides, and place directly into the preheated oven.

Making Butter Spongecake

Prepare as in Method I (by mixer or by hand) for spongecake, but add butter after the flour has been folded in.

Melt the unsalted butter in a saucepan before starting with the beating of the eggs. Skim off the residue of milk solids. By the time you are ready to add the butter it should be warm, but no longer hot.

After the flour has been folded into the batter, add one-third of the melted butter and fold it in rapidly but gently with a wire whip. Fold in the rest, being careful not to overmix, since this might deflate the batter.

Bake immediately in a prepared pan so that the butter will not settle to the bottom.