Egg Whites

In spite of the culinary mystique surrounding methods for achieving perfectly beaten egg whites, the operation is easy once its principles are understood. While yeast, baking powder and other leavening agents make a cake rise by the release of carbon dioxide as the cake bakes, egg whites perform the task in a simpler way. Beaten egg whites are more air than egg, consisting of countless tiny bubbles. When heat is applied to these, they expand, causing the cake to rise. The success of your cake thus depends on how much air you are able to beat into the whites, and how well you are able to fold them in to the batter without deflating them.

Perfectly beaten egg whites have a smooth texture and velvety sheen and, when done, should stand in stiff peaks. If the whites are to be beaten by hand (which is hard work!), a wire whip should be used, but any sort of electric or mechanical beater will work very well. The bowl should be round-bottomed and is best if made of stainless steel. Plastic is adequate if it is very carefully washed beforehand – otherwise, trace amounts of oil or fat clinging to it will interfere with the rising of the whites. Porcelain and glass bowls should be avoided: their slippery surfaces do not support the rising whites.

If egg whites have a reputation for being finicky about deciding whether or not they want to rise, it is probably because they are so sensitive to impurities, such as grease or oil, on the bowl or beater. The tiniest amount of yolk in the whites will also keep them from mounting properly. Chilled egg whites should be allowed to stand at room temperature for at least 20 minutes before beating, otherwise they will not mount sufficiently.

Beating the Egg Whites

By Hand. Start beating with a wire whip at a rate of about two strokes per second in a vertical circular motion. When the whites have begun to foam, add ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar (or a drop of lemon juice) for every six eggs. Continue the beating, rotating the bowl occasionally so that all of the liquid whites are beaten into the fluff. When you think the whites are sufficiently beaten, hold up the whip with a dollop of whites on the end. If the peak stays firm, you have achieved “stiffly beaten egg whites.” If not, continue a bit longer and test again. Beaten egg whites should be immediately folded into the batter.

By Mixer. Start beating on low until whites begin to foam. Add ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar (or a drop of lemon juice) for every six eggs. Gradually increase speed and test for stiffness as explained above.

Folding in the Egg Whites

Never use a mixer for folding in egg whites. A wire whip or spatula is best for this task. Fold about one-third of the egg whites into the batter first. Cut through the batter and egg whites, going down to the bottom of the bowl and coming up along the side, thus turning over a portion of the batter. Repeat this motion until whites are folded in. Work quickly, so as not to deflate the bubbles.